It sure felt more like Dec than Sep on Sat. morn!!
A light rain fell and the waves were the biggest I've seen literally in months!!
I have to admit I felt a little tentative out there. First time I've ridden my larger wave board since the freak South that hit in May!
The funny thing is that when I checked out the spot at daylight, I thought the swell had Dropped!! My report to the boys was 2-3'!!
An hour later Scott Mac tells me one guy had paddled out got his clock cleaned on his first wave and the dude came straight in!!
A harbinger of things to come as On his first wave Scott Mac Takes off on the peak of at least a 6 footer and HE gets his clock cleaned royally!!
He paddles in after his first wave as well!
So there I am all alone first time at this spot and winter juice!!
It was awesome and my heart was pumping!!
Soon Joined by Scott and Jon it was all good. Even the !5 wave TRUE cleanup set from HELL!
That feeling of really having to stroke into a wave and the surge of speed . . .
Real bottom turns and no need to generate speed . . .
I kiss this weak, feckless summer GOODBYE!!
Thanks Bros for letting me crash your party.
Peace
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
Fredo