This weeks large swell

W.G. Facenda · Post by **W.G. Facenda** » Fri Dec 07, 2007 9:03 pm

All very true! Sandspit was a secret for decades though as was PO's. The only crew that surfed sandspit til late seventies was Harbor guys and......Little 10 yr old T. Curran.I don't personally know of anyone here that drives to NB in the summer to surf.All that was then and this is now. Now, it's mostly a circus in town .. and it seems most people like a circus.

Jimbo · Post by **Jimbo** » Fri Dec 07, 2007 10:30 pm

Circus sucks - I still long for those days when that reef in Montecito was doable on a solid swell. Did not mean to infer that everyone comes to NB in the summer (and if they did who could tell), just that there is a lot of dringi n going on - both north and south. Anyways - bummed it is so zooed these days as I may be moving back up......

Jimbo · Post by **Jimbo** » Fri Dec 07, 2007 10:31 pm

a lot of driving I meant

Sprocky · Post by **Sprocky** » Sat Dec 08, 2007 10:37 am

Hey WG, my family has been in SB county since the 1800's, and I spent the first half of my life there. So when I head back up from LA, I see it as going home. I'm sure I'm not the only one you now see as an "INVADER".
It raises an interesting question. What makes someone a "local"? Family heritage, current address, time in the water, or with the vast majority of people living in at least 7 different locals in their lifetime, does it really matter?

W.G. Facenda · Post by **W.G. Facenda** » Sat Dec 08, 2007 12:31 pm

Local Schmocal! I could careless, Where anyone is from, or what they surf, or what color they are. Did you see those crowds! Most spots were more crowded than Malibu on a south swell in July..

Sprocky · Post by **Sprocky** » Sat Dec 08, 2007 1:12 pm

You can blame modern technology on that. I'd get off the graveyard shift from Raytheon in Goleta at 7:30 in the morning and go surf head high El Cap by myself. With web cams, email alerts and cell phones now those days are gone for good.
But odd you should mention Malibu. The last south we had early November I got it relatively uncrowded 3 days in a row.

Jimbo · Post by **Jimbo** » Sat Dec 08, 2007 2:18 pm

That is a big 10-4 Sprocky!!! I once got El Cap head high and firing in July!!! It was ridiculous. I think one of the other things is that wetsuits are so much better - you just don't get that cold anymore. WG - let's hit that place by the super luxury resort one of these days. Love that place.

rooster · Post by **rooster** » Sat Dec 08, 2007 3:17 pm

hey Sprocky,

Owl Chapman said it best in an interview in Surfer way back when :

A local at Sunset is a guy paddling into the peak and towards the beach when the rest of the crowd is paddling for the horizon when a set comes in

gumby · Post by **gumby** » Sat Dec 08, 2007 3:33 pm

gene west · Post by **gene west** » Sun Dec 09, 2007 9:53 am

circus, you bet...over 100 people in the line-up @ Swamis, lifeguards working their bott off rescueing 35....Ja Jolla Cove 50-75 people in the water and in the way lifeguards runnin' their asses off on their jet skis plucking kooks out of the water, a whole heap of broken boards stuck in the cave under the clam, some kooks, after getting worked just left their sticks floating when the ski picked em' up, @ the cliffs, lifeguards donned their helmets and had to repel down the cliffs to rescue people with less skills than common sense...Darwinism for sure-Hey Kook-out of the gene pool!!!!

K-man · Post by **K-man** » Sun Dec 09, 2007 3:07 pm

Good grief!!I promise never to bitch again when there are 10 out at my favorite reef.

cheers

Mark Ramirez · Post by **Mark Ramirez** » Sun Dec 09, 2007 4:17 pm

I agree with rooster, the locals are taking off on the set waves, while the others are just being the buoys in the water. They're just getting in the way! Alot of these guys shouldn't be in the water. Because of technology, they go to spots where their surf reports tell them where it will be good. Alot of people knew about the swell a week before it even got here!

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This weeks large swell

circus

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