My Recent Visit To Father Time's Surf Camp

[Scott]

April 4, 2004. The NorCal off-shore buoys are showing in the 14-17’ range, 17 seconds, so it's a good indication that this is possibly the last sizable swell of the winter, and that it will grow throughout the day. Forecasts are even calling for Mavricks to be breaking. My boss lets me head out early from work at 2:00 p.m. I pick up fledgling kneelo Nick at his work and we're on our way by about 2:45. In all the hustle, I forget to bring my camcorder! After an uneventful hour-long session at 6-8' Swift Street, we decide to head to Steamer Lane, which will be doing a lot more with this swell.

A short 5 minute drive down the road, and we're quickly hopping the safety fence to jump off the Point. The Lane is picking up the swell dead on, that’s for sure, and the swell is growing a bit. The winds are light sideshore-onshore, and it’s a bit bumpy way outside. Nick’s plan is to surf the insider break, Indicator and I’m thinking about the Slot (just between the Point and the main outside Middle Peak). Easy slide off the Point into the dark-grey water; it seems colder water now and I’m shivering a bit. The Point and Slot are kinda washed out in the building swell, so I bail on hanging there and decide to keep Nick company further inside. I wait for a lull and paddle inside of the handful of guys who are sitting far outside, waiting for the double-overhead-plus lefts. There are lots of peaks of whitewater pushing from way outside into Indicator but they’re just peaks; they don’t wall up well into Indies like it's supposed to. When it does it right, the mushy outside peak develops into a classic, racy, right hand wall, 1/3 the size of the outside peak, and it fires along for about 200+ yards. I take a few waves but am disappointed with the lack of a wall—just long rides waiting around the whitewater for the real wave to reform, never having it happen, then a considerably longer paddle back out against the strong Lane current. Nick gets a few long ones, going all the way down Indicator around the point into Cowells.

I’m a pretty positive guy, but I'm starting to get depressed. I have this allergic cough that is kicking in (lately, I have to take cough drops with me tucked in a baggie inside my wetsuit sleeve), and this one particular chest muscle is really starting to hurt from all the coughing. In my condition I certainly don’t want to go way, way outside for the sizable lefts but I just keep getting caught inside by the already broken peaks. And these piles of soup have some real power in them. Some, though only 6-8’, hold me down a long, long time, underscoring their 17-second interval power. They’re laughing at me! And there’s no sense turning around and catching them because there’s just no wall to make it worthwhile. I paddle around more, and get cleaned up more. I’m getting pretty cold now, and my chest pain is throbbing. I’m thinking, "this is not how I envisioned today. I’m not having fun. I turn 50 this July, and I'm suddenly feeling….feeling...well...OLD. Is this how it will be when I’m older? Is this why guys eventually stop surfing? Do they increasingly have sessions like this one, feeling cold, out of breath, confused and just plain worn out. Do they finally just hang it up?" I look outside and there’s this little grom, couldn’t have been more than a 7th grader, paddling his 5’ 8" into lefts almost 3 times his height, dropping way down the face with a funny stinkbug stance, and then surfing it quite well. "Maybe all this is really for the kids…" I sighed. I’m on my Blast quad round pin, which I brought today specifically to try to score some big waves and yet here I am, slopping around at Indicators. What a pathetic whiner I'm suddenly becoming!

I finally decide to paddle back through Middle Peak to the Slot again and see if I can get a good right there. As I’m crossing the zone where the sizable lefts break at Middle Peak I look way outside, where the bigger sets occasionally peak slightly a mile or two over distant deepwater reefs. Suddenly, to everyone’s amazement in the lineup, two waves actually break out there on that legendary 3rd reef! The other surfers let out this kinda cry. I haven’t seen anything break there for years—I know it does this every now and then, but as a once-a-week surfer, I’m just never around to see it. I figure they've gotta be 20’ waves minimum to break there. I know that whatever these monsters are, they’ll be bearing down on the Lane in a few minutes. Paddling outside definitely seems like the plan now—the heck with continuing on to the Slot. Somehow, I’m soon past everyone else in my area, now way outside. And here come the waves! They’re somewhat off the main reef where the main crew is, a bit closer to the Point, just where I happen to be. The first one is bearing down on me. It’s huge. No accurate way to estimate waves like this when they get to be this size, and I’m not trying to. All I see is the wind-whipped lip feathering menacingly, with the sideshore chop along the top looking to throw out rapidly in massive eight foot sections. I want nothing to do with this wave! I just scratch over the top with spray raining all around me, and now the second wave comes into view. Also big and nasty. I want nothing to do with this one either! I just get over the crest and here comes number three. I want to avoid getting cleaned up so bad and I’m motoring full speed now; no thoughts about the cold or my chest. But this wave is a little cleaner as it’s followed the other two, which have acted as some sort of wind shield. As I approach the trough, old instinct unexpectedly takes over. I spin around decide to go for it. A guy somewhere inside of me gives the long "go ahead" hoot. That’s a good sound.

Recently, my brother [Man O'War] wrote me, perfectly describing big days at Steamers: "[in this area] there is nothing steeper than those lefts at the Lane. I guess because the swells are bending around to the east, the inside corner compacts, like the inside person on crack-the-whip." I don’t know how to paddle for large waves like these except to paddle very hard. Living on Oahu for three years, all those sessions at Sunset Beach have ingrained in me the absolute insanity of paddling tentatively in big waves—you’ll get pitched out for sure and experience the very worst sort of thrashing. I've certainly been on the receiving end those thrashings.

I kick hard and eventually force the board to slide over the thick top ledge. It’s a long way down as I start the drop, and so steep--it’s really scary. There are swirls and bumps all the way into the pit, and some skipping of the board, yet it holds in beautifully. A big swooping turn and I’m racing the massive wall that is getting ready for an eventual closeout right near the Point, where 100 or so on-lookers are peering down from "the Gallery". The Blast is really hissing along now with an almost audible, "Yesssss! Thissss is what I was shaped for!!" I eventually get out the back at the last second and just avoid getting sucked back over the falls.

I am just stoked beyond belief! That is one of the largest waves of my whole life and it happened when I was at my most miserable self. I just sit there for a minute or two, pondering it all, as the sea returns to normal. Some guy who’s been hanging on the inside paddles by and says, "hey, was that you on that big wave?!" "Yeah", I reply, "and I’m so glad it wasn’t too bumpy. It’s really hard to handle bump on a kneeboard." He looks at me quizzically: "Oh, I thought you were a surfer". Then, after a pause, he actually says—not seeming to comprehend the insult—"I didn’t realize you were just a kneeboarder." I’m incredulous, and am right back at him: "Just a kneeboarder? Just a kneeboarder?" What’s that about!?" He didn’t have anything else to say and I just paddle back outside. In a few minutes I manage to snag another very sizable set wave. Same amazing drop, though not quite so massive. Same fun turns.

What a day it turned out to be. Huge waves I’ll remember for a long time. I change into clothes, wait up on the cliff in the car with my chest burning, not even watching the set waves still rolling in. 30 minutes later Nick walks up after exiting the water at the beach at Cowells hundreds of yards to the inside, also stoked for the longest waves he's had in his short surf life. I hope I always remember how, in my weakest moments, I found some real strength and God blessed me. Sounds like a lightweight application of a really heavyweight truth.

Maybe I can outlast Father Time for some more years.

[MWROBERTSON]

Scott,

Don't ever forget that you're surfing well and getting better! Don't ever forget that YOUR surfing is often times a PERSONAL challange too. The constraints of everyday life(aging, health, family, work etc.) become the blessings and hurdles to the way it used to be when we were all young, unattached and free to do whatever. I see it in my life and with all my other KB buddies. We are all keeping as many balls up in the air as possible and looking to surfing as a gift and a release. I know you mentioned that those waves renewed that feeling for you. I think you/we will surf until we can't anymore. When the ego is gone, body broken down a bit and time at a minimum. The thing you will always have is your HOT ability and child like stoke to constatnly renew the reason(s) why you started surfing in the first place.

[DrStrange]

Nice tale. I've also had some of my best surfs after pushing through various resistance, both inner and outer.

That said, if you find that you are more and more feeling like a weak, old person, get a full hormone work up. I had one done awhile ago (turned last Dec). Been feeling very punk for several years (and no, NOT Sid Vicious). Discovered I had the dreaded Andropause. Zero thyroid and low testosterone and DHEA and high estrogen. A few wonder drugs and I'm feeling pretty damn fine again!

[gsurf]

Scott,
I got two words to help beat that "old" feeling.
"Lap swimming" , especially for those of us who can't surf everyday and have to content with old man time.
I swim 3-4k yards 3x a week and it makes a world of difference. I rarely feel worked on any but the biggest, most consistent days.
P.S- I'm 54.

[DrStrange]

Definitely, swimming is one of the most non-surf, surf-specific workouts.

[Jon Manss]

Scott is by no means out of shape. He's a charger and will be for some time. Great story Scott. I was there earlier that day and avoided the state of the surf that you encountered. The only good wall was that left. Your story reminds me of glassy medium high tide BC (before cords) days that your brother and the rest of the boys would surf all by our kneeboard selves because of the risk of the board to rock ratio. Your discription is so perfect. Any one who has ridden that left knows exactly what you rode. Thanks for the memories Jon

[Scott]

Yes, John S., that was a pic from that day at the Lane. That was one of the mid-size rights that were available. Nice of you to track it down. Would've really been cool if he had gotten "the wave". I especially enjoyed the pics on the third page of the link, those of "Nick Lamb"--I guess that's the name of the 7th grader who so impressed me with his charging the bigger lefts.

A number of you offered helpful comments about how to stay in shape and delay the effects of aging. All good. However, the story wasn't so much about that issue as it was about how, in the midst of a really lousy life experience, a really good thing can happen. That being said, I really should start making use of the large pool at the school at which I work...

What a great site this is where we rub shoulders with so many other kneelos! There seems to be a resurrgence in the water, too. Yesterday morning at Scotts Creek there were 6 of us out, including Don Harris and Bob Schiff who eschewed Ocean Beach for some fantastic 6-10' great reef waves further south. Some of the other surfers were moaning, "where did all these kneeboarders come from?"

Jon Manss, thanks.

Scott

[SFKneelo]

I'm a few years shy of Scott, and MAN, was I cooked yesterday PM. That was lot's of fun! Scott's son shot video. Don and I took a peek afterward, and I'd swear Scott was getting a 3:1 wavecount over both of us. There's some very nice rides in there... hopefully we can get some posted. Scott definitely got the goods!

Don and I were positioning for the wipeout of the day. There were plenty of opportunities, as waves were coming in at various directions... some of which were heaving. I saw one on film that left a mark (2 bruises.) And to top it off, a whale surfaced pretty darn close to Kneelo Nick, who also lost a swimfin only to have it recovered by a stand-up (odds on that... 1,000,000:1)

It's a beautiful stretch of coast that keeps you thinking about what's swimming around underneath. Reef gurgles, kelp popping up, and seals, whales, etc. are constant reminders.

Speaking of OB... Don, Scott. Looks like it's fairly rideable. I'm locked and loaded. If not today, maybe tomorrow DP?

[Don]

Scott,

Thanks for the story of your session at "The Lane". I haven't surfed it in 20 years but the memories came back like it was yesterday... I'll search through my old photo's see if I have any 3rd reef shots to post.

As for yesterday at "The Reef's" again, thanks for your insightful prediction as the swell was good, conditions were good and the crowd light. You should take some credit now that Oscar is off his body-board and enjoying his Blast kneeboard. The line up was 50% + kneeriders and after watching the video your son shot I'm yet again impressed on your wave count.

To all who don't know Scott, he does charge and his "home break" is a stretch of coast that deserves respect. I look forward to surfing with him whenever I can. Additionally, take note that while I've only had the pleasure to know Scott over the past year or two, his surfing has improved more than anyone else I've seen (regardless of his youthful age - a few years my senior). He watches others and takes mental notes on subtle weight changes and applies them with out fear.

Thanks for the story and let's hope our NW'ers keep on coming!

[gsurf]

Old Lane story, Early-mid 70's
Perhaps Jon M. was out on this day as well.
It was in mid winter at a time when it was not uncommon to have 10-15 kneeboarders out at the point. This particular day started off at 6-8 feet in the morning with a large swell forecast.
The swell was steadlily increasing all morning reaching a consistant 15+ feet by noon and getting bigger. Alot of the standups were having trouble pushing through the big cleanup sets to the point where mostly kneeboarders remained.
By mid-afternoon the outer reef was breaking all the way across 1st peak, walling acrossed to Mitchell's Cove and closing out across to the pier. There was probably 10 of us kneeboarders remaining outside close to a half mile offshore past Sealrock and starting to get a little concerned over being able to get in safely. We were still catching waves but kicking out early to avoid getting caught inside.
We noticed firetrucks upon the cliff with light flashing and thinking something is not good.
Next we know there is a Coastie Helio buzzing overhead and someone with a bullhorn asking us if we wanted to be "rescued" we waved them off and realized that it must be alot nastier inside than we thought.
Floating up high with the swells we could see the cliff faces were being hammered by the swell, water pouring onto the road.
Oh-Oh, we got a problem. Getting out via the cliff is out-of-the-question. Have to head south to Cowell's or Rivermouth and make a beach landing.
We each take a wave that looks manageable hoping to ride in to the beach knowing that to wipeout too soon would guarantee gettting pushed into the cliff by the following sets.
Since most of the waves were closing out we were forced to punchout of the white water then paddle like hell south and let the next wave push us in some more hoping to stay clear of the cliffs.
I ended up south of the pier after a mad dash through the pier between waves and managed to sneak in through the 10 foot shorebreak. Another KB'er on the other side of the pier got slammed on the beach breaking his collarbone and needing rescue by the Lifeguards. Everyone else was alright.
Turns out that the firetrucks were rescuing some guys that did try and climb out the cliffs and got nailed. The Coasties were called as a backup in case these guys could not be pulled up the cliffs safely.
Lesson learned: Listen to the surf forecast and keep an eye on the horizon.

[Jack Beresford]

Scott - cool story. I was real impressed with your surfing at the KSUSA titles. I've never surfed the Lane but these stories just convince me more that we've got to find a way to hold the contest out there.

[Jon Manss]

Hey Gsurf NO I don't recall ever being out with the helos over head for my sake. But I've been on the helping end of a lifesaver rope pulling a surfer straight up a cliff on daya like that. I've also seen a drowning in surf like that in the coves just north of the Lane. We call It beach and there is no beach in the winter at High tide.

[Ler]

Reminds me of Bolsa, what, what I say.

[DrStrange]

Chica????